Kunming, China, it turns out, is mostly cement and just as polluted as other Chinese cities, but it didn’t matter because we were staying in what is left of the original city, facing a large lake full of lotus and water lily that is surrounded by vividly planted flower beds and many flowering trees. It is eternally spring in Kunming because although the city is in southern China close to the Laotian border, it sits on the shoulders of the Tibetan plateau, so the weather is balmy, mild, and vaguely sunny (through the smog) year round. Best of all is an island in the middle of the lake, connected by walkways to the shore, where all the “senior citizens” from the surrounding province spend the day, every day, dancing, playing a wild variety of single-stringed instruments and flutes, and listening to music.